Many women in Indonesia use cosmetics to brighten their skin. One of the common ingredients in skin-brightening products is Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA). AHA is often used as a moisturizer, exfoliant, and ingredient in chemical peels. However, improper or excessive use can have harmful effects on skin health.
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What is Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA)?
Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA) is a natural chemical compound frequently used in skincare and cosmetic products due to its high antioxidant content. AHA helps exfoliate dead skin cells, making the skin appear brighter and healthier.
AHA is an organic acid composed of two or more carbon chains. The longer the carbon chain, the greater the molecular weight. The effectiveness of AHA in cosmetics depends on pH, concentration, and free acid availability.
Some common types of AHA used in cosmetics include:
- Glycolic acid
- Lactic acid
- Malic acid
- Tartaric acid
- Mandelic acid
- Citric acid (including its salts and esters)
Benefits of AHA for Skin:
- Aids in skin exfoliation
- Enhances skin brightness
- Prevents acne
Use of AHA in Skincare Cosmetics
The use of AHA in cosmetic products is categorized into three groups based on concentration and application:
1. Self-application (Group 1)
- Concentration ≤ 10% (calculated as acid)
- pH ≥ 3.5
2. Application by a doctor (Group 2)
- Concentration > 10% – 20% (calculated as acid)
- pH ≥ 3.0
3. Application by a dermatologist and venereologist (Group 3)
- Concentration > 20% (calculated as acid)
- pH ≥ 3.0, with a total concentration of up to 30%
These concentrations are based on the single AHA content or a combination of multiple AHA ingredients in a product.
Labeling Requirements
Each cosmetic product containing AHA must include warning labels, especially if the concentration is ≥ 2.5%. The required warnings are as follows:
1. General Warnings
- If hypersensitivity reactions (burning sensation, redness, or other signs of irritation) occur, discontinue use and consult a doctor.
- Avoid direct sun exposure during use.
- Do not apply around the eyes, mouth, or other mucous membranes.
Products containing AHA ≥ 2.5% used on sun-exposed body areas without effective sunscreen must include an additional warning:
“This product contains alpha-hydroxy acid, which may increase skin sensitivity to sunlight and the risk of sunburn. Use sunscreen, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure during use and for one week afterward.”
2. Special Warnings
- Group 2: In addition to the general warnings, the label must include: “For application by a doctor only.”
- Group 3: In addition to the general warnings, the label must include: “For application by a dermatologist and venereologist only.”
How can INSIGHTOF help?
INSIGHTOF offers comprehensive regulatory services to facilitate market entry in Indonesia, specializing in BPOM and Kemenkes product registration with expert guidance every step of the way.
For any inquiries, please feel free to contact us at marketing@insightof.co.id.
References: Peraturan-BPOM-Nomor-18-Tahun-2024.pdf
