Cosmetics containing Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) are commonly used as moisturizers, exfoliants, and chemical peels aimed at brightening the skin. Despite their diverse benefits, improper or excessive use of AHA can pose risks to skin health. Therefore, the use of AHA in cosmetics must be strictly regulated regarding both concentration percentages and application procedures.
According to BPOM Regulation No. 30 of 2020, cosmetics containing AHA are classified based on AHA concentration and application methods:
- Group 1: Products applied by consumers themselves, containing up to 10% AHA with a pH of 3.5 or higher. These products can be distributed directly to the public.
- Group 2: Products that must be applied by a doctor, containing more than 10% up to 20% AHA with a pH of 3.0 or higher. These products can only be distributed to doctors.
- Group 3: Products that must be applied by a dermatologist and venereologist, containing more than 20% up to 30% AHA with a pH of 3.0 or higher. These products can only be distributed to specialists in dermatology and venereology.
To ensure the safe use of cosmetics containing AHA, each product must include the following warnings:
A. General Warnings:
- For cosmetics with AHA concentrations ≥ 2.5%:
- If hypersensitivity reactions (such as burning, redness, or other signs of irritation) occur on the skin, discontinue use and consult a doctor immediately.
- Avoid direct sun exposure during use.
- Do not use around the eyes, mouth, or other mucous membranes.
- Additional warnings for cosmetics used on body areas exposed to sunlight with AHA concentrations ≥ 2.5% that do not contain sunscreen or contain sunscreen with ineffective concentrations must include warnings about sun protection.
B. Specific Warnings:
- Warning for Group 2 AHA-containing skin cosmetics: “For application by doctors only.”
- Warning for Group 3 AHA-containing skin cosmetics: “For application by dermatologists and venereologists only.”
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